evidence based policy movement
10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. This thread is archived. The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. Both devices have a wire keeper loop. People swore up and down that Petzl had the brightest light, others vouched for Black Diamond. And bought as well as been given the newest Black Diamond ATC-Guide. Which is the better belay device? Its intuitive use allows the control of the brake friction on the rope. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. Conseils d’achat Comparatifs Avis & Tests produits However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (right). share. One man said his Black Diamonds always broke when he needed them most, another said his Black Diamond was the most rugged piece of equipment he owned. A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. Les systèmes assistance à l'assurage sont conçus pour provoquer un blocage provisoire. Black Diamond ATC belay / rappel device. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. PETZL Grigri Belay Device 4.8 out of 5 stars 192. For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. Nowadays, it seems like every single outdoor sports company is coming up with their own variation to the time tested Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso. $102.87. In fact, the Petzl Reverso has all the same features as the Black Diamond ATC Guide for the same price — and less the weight. So are the Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, etc. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. The market is large and the offer is even larger. FWIW, the ATC Guide, and the ATC XP are two different models. However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. They also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stoppin Pickup Location: Chinook Stronghold Hanger Rocky. PETZL Reverso Climbing Belay Device 5.0 out of 5 stars 33. Colour: Black Blue. L’ATC Guide est un assureur en aluminium de type « tube » qui fait partie de la famille ATC de Black Diamond. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 141. The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. 26.99. I use an ATC for the gym and most toproping, especially with thick 11mm+ ropes, and a Reverso 4 for all lead belays -from above and below - and anything involving a skinny rope <9.8mm. If you use the ATC XP in low friction mode (i.e. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. The current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device, but with the same functionality." Due to its simple design, its operation is very clear and safe (provided that it is properly secured with the braking hand). However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. Archived. The actual “ATC” is not a high friction mode device, but the “ATC Guide” is. Quelques caractéristiques. While the ATC and ATC XP are tubular aperture belay devices, the ATC Guide is an aperture-style self-braking belay device. Hi, my name is Martin. We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide can also perform all of the functions that the Reverso can." Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. Exactly here a small innovation shows up. with atc guide it's easier to control skinnier ropes but also more difficult to pull out thicker ropes, which is important if your rope is on the thick side to begin with, and starts to mean a lot once your rope gets older and wider (and that happens quite quickly): since i usually deal with thick ropes (i'm poor and all my friends are poor too lol), i prefer the reverso. Quantity: Add To Cart. We compare the ATC Guide*of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4*of the manufacturer Petzl. The ATC Guide has an additional attachment point. Posted by 5 years ago. sale Current price: $33.71 Original price: $44.95 25% off. A bit more in price, but you get the same functionality of an ATC, with the auto-locking performance of a GriGri. 86% Upvoted. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. "The currently manufactured Reverso is no longer made of sheet metal, as it was found that one of its surfaces could potentially wear down to a sharp edge that could cut a rope. level 1. The Reverso 4 has scalloped sidewalls for weight savings, and as the Black Diamond device, an enlarged hole for the auto lock release. Petzl Reverso Cubed - Petzl say 72 grams Black Diamond ATC Guide - BD say 102 grams For an almost identical piece of kit (the Petzl one is marginally more user-friendly), you can save 30g, which everyone knows, is about two packs of crisps these days (slight exaggeration, but I thought I'd complain about crisps as well). $29.65 - $35.00. ... Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC guide, Wild Country Pro Guide, Mammut Wall Alpine wszystkie te przyrządy działają tak samo i są niesamowicie przydatne i uniwersalne. Atc Guide - UNIQUE - Noir : infos et prix. They both perform relatively similarly in my experience. Black Diamond ATC XP. The situation is different with the Autotube. As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. Go with a Mammut Smart Alpine. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. Like the ATC XP, it also has grooves to increase friction for a belay. Mit dem Reverso ist das ganz einfach. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. Petzl Reverso je lehká, víceúčelová brzda určená pro jištění a slaňování na sportovních i vícedélkových cestách. This thread is archived. Anyone owned both? For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. 05-19-2010, 10:20 PM #2. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Wild Country Pro Guide Lite Belay Device 5.0 out of 5 stars 6. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. Black Diamond ATC-GUIDE ANTHRACITE. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. $102.87. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. $21.95. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. They also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. I've got nothing but good things to say about mine. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. Petzl Reverso Cubed - Petzl say 72 grams Black Diamond ATC Guide - BD say 102 grams For an almost identical piece of kit (the Petzl one is marginally more user-friendly), you can save 30g, which everyone knows, is about two packs of crisps these days (slight exaggeration, but I thought I'd complain about crisps as well). Not everyone climbs on or likes 7.7 twin ropes. Before we go into … View Post. Auto-block (resistance belaying a second) The largest difference between the Reverso and the other auto-block devices we compared it to is the friction in auto-block … ... Black Diamond ATC-Pilot Belay Device. Im in the same spot as you, recently I friend of mine bought a bd harness from mountain gear as a reward for helping him he gave me the included atc which i sold and I am thinking of getting a newer belay device (use a old petzl reverso 2 ) , I was told in a climbing shop that bd guide works better in high friction mode with thinner ropes than the reverso. Price is not a factor. Archived. Posted by 6 years ago. To add to this, compared to a normal BD ATC has anyone found them worse for regular belaying? Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? Luckily for us climbers, competition yields innovation. Device dynamic securing is not possible with them. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. It is rated for ropes from 7.7mm to 10.5mm and, similar to the Reverso, has a clip-in point to allow for autoblock belaying. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts, https://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/221001010_v_0044/Smart-Alpine-8.9---10.5.html. But, some argue that this is the “old” way to belay from above, and instead recommend using guide mode on an auto-blocking belay device — such the Black Diamond ATC-Guide and the Petzl Reverso. The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. The Wild Country Pro Guide Lite belay device is just that. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. Their headlamps (all in this review) feature 3 different night vision modes. It is not unusual for me to give skinny rope belay devices to my partners. Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! There are probably a hundred different belay devices on the market, yet around here, only two are commonly seen on climbers’ harness: the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. $29.90 - $29.95. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. 1 color available. While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. Press enter for more information. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. I've heard the BD guide takes 9.5mm and larger ropes better when in autolocking mode than the reverso. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. One of the biggest advantages of the ATC Guide is that it can be used without karabiners. During longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the braking hand. For this reason, the Reverso 4 can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength. Le Reverso 4 est un assureur/descendeur polyvalent ultra-léger, avec freinage adapté aux différents diamètres et souplesses de cordes. Black Diamond Big Air XP Package 4.7 out of 5 stars 154. I was going to say this but hatmatter beat me to it. However, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure safe operation. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? Most standard multi-pitch belay devices look and perform about the same with only superficial differences to differentiate between brands. on the side without the teeth) it's pretty much identical to an ATC in belaying and rapping. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. best. Even rappelling off different diameter ropes is a breeze. Rock Climbing Equipment List. My reverso got sharp after a year or so of use. Some work better for smaller ropes like the Petzl Reverso while others are designed for slightly larger ropes like BD’s ATC. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Add to Cart; Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no cost for you! When belaying a follower from above, one can easily belay off an anchor, rather than the body, by using "guide mode", increasing safety and comfort. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. Petzl Reverso 4 vs Black Diamond ATC Guide? With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. The Petzl Reverso 4 is a tube-style belay device with favorite devices to rappel Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of In the world of climbing equipment, an ATC is a tubular belay and rappel device, as models of the Black Diamond ATC Air Traffic Controller were named. The Petzl Reverso III and the Black Diamond ATC-Guide are the two I have used a lot. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay/Rappel Device 4.3 out of 5 stars 18. If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. Conseils d’achat Comparatifs Avis & Tests produits Similar to the operation Release rope, the point Operation Release rope is an important criterion for our comparison. Flexible in use and easy to handle, the Reverso 4 is a convincing all-rounder for beginners. Which one would you recommend? $29.90 - $29.95. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. Close. Features Clip a carabiner to the carabiner hole and give a tug to easily and gradually release the loaded device while in Reverso mode The Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it's own anchor system. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. Black Diamond ATC-Guide Alpine (envy green) - Assureur-descendeur polyvalent | à partir de 23,99 € | Comparer les prix avec idealo.fr ! Next. Great for rapelling, cutting down weight and, if used correctly, just as safe as any other belay device, models like the Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide and Beal Air Force 1 won't let you down. Which is the better belay device? BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. But did you know you can also rig it in a similar way for top rope belaying? Either a special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear of the karabiner occurs quickly. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? It's as simple as that. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. Black Diamond ATC-Guide (2019) - Assureur-descendeur polyvalent | à partir de 23,49 € | Comparer les prix avec idealo.fr ! 20 comments. The braking effect already starts at an angle between 10 and 45 degrees. The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. … Detail 799 Kč. Ich habe vor einigen Jahren ein ATC von black diamond entdeckt, das zu meinem Lieblingsabseil- und von-unten-nach-oben Sicherungsgerät wurde. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? It is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g. save hide report. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Il s’agissait de l’ATC Guide de la marque Black Diamond, et j’ignorais alors que je venais d’acquérir un petit bijou. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. Having both, I'd actually recommend this, https://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/221001010_v_0044/Smart-Alpine-8.9---10.5.html as an active guide mode belay device without any moving parts if'n you're looking for the best everything. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. La marque escalade Black Diamond notamment, propose plusieurs modèles d'assureur / descendeur de type "tube", par exemple le dispositif ATC qui est conçu pour fluidifier le glissement de la corde. If you've got a really fat/fuzzy rope and you use it in high friction mode then it can be a bit of a ball ache, but then it's easy enough to just use it in low friction mode so it's not an issue 99% of the time. $21.95. Petzl Reverso 4: 79 g. Black Diamond ATC Guide: 88 g. Petzl GriGri 2: 170 g *Being steel, I expect this device to last much longer than its aluminum cousins. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from an anchor and want the rope to autolock. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. And now I want to share what I have learned with you. Links marked with * are affiliate links. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. Get a Guide XP or Reverso if you're going to climb outside on thinner ropes. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a near-essential, ever-popular piece of gear designed for multi-pitch rock climbing. If you are a climber, it is important that you can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope. The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. save hide report. If you’ve spent your entire climbing career until this point only using a tube-style belay device, like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso, the first thing you’ll notice is that the GriGri is large – really large. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. This is not the standard rappel technique that is commonly used with devices like the Black Diamond ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso, that hold two rope strands at a time. Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. Smooth rappelling off of an equivocation hitch using the Pro Guide Lite 24 comments. One excellent feature of guide mode is that the ATC acts as an auto-locking belay device. Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Much of a muchness really. Das Seil krangelt damit nicht wie bei HMS oder Abseilacht. Compared to the conventional tube, the device blocks completely and alone. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is hot forged 7075 aluminum and weighs 102 grams (3.5oz). PETZL Grigri Belay Device 4.8 out of 5 stars 192. The ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond behaves similarly. I cannot second this enough. This allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters. Facebook 0 Twitter Pinterest 0. $31.95. Works great in crevasse rescue as well, it can function as a prusik minding pulley in your haul system. MARQUE : PETZL Modèle : Reverso 4 Usage. However, one of the minor headaches of using these devices is that it can be quite tricky to lower your second, especially if they are free hanging on the rope (admittedly an unlikely situation). The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). Or rappelling? How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? The blocking mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated by clamping the rope inside the machine. The ATC Guide is Black Diamond’s belay device, but the most common turn of phrase for this kind of device is just “ATC”. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ Anyone owned both? Check out the Kong Gi Gi, it belays one or two climbers off the anchor better than any other device but you'll need another device to belay a leader. Wild Country PRO LITE GREEN. In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. $24.00. They are both about the same size (Reverso 3 was tight) and definitely tighter then an ATC. Black Diamond Big Air XP Package 4.7 out of 5 stars 154. Regular ATC vs guide mode ATCs: For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. Chugach001. ATC Guide je nejuniverzálnější jistítko určené pro jištění a slaňování, které má o 10 % nižší hmotnost než jeho… Detail 769 Kč. Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? Other examples of this type of belay device include the Petzl Reverso 4, Black Diamond ATC Guide, Cassin Piu 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, Kong Gigi, Mammut Smart, Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay, and the CAMP Ovo. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? Honestly I found it easier to use than an ATC in all situations. The Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are the most popular assisted braking devices, but pretty much every major manufacturer has their own flavor. Petzl Reverso 4 vs Black Diamond ATC Guide? A long service life and functionality are convincing. I wear out an ATC about every year, so this could be a very nice feature. Black Diamond ATC Guide . The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. No one is denying that assisted braking devices like GriGris are wonderful, but the classic belay plate should not be underestimated! Small drawback: The rope run depends on the diameter and the nature of the rope. The major differences between the two brands is that Black Diamond offers more light modes, including the useful red light mode. Reviewer Drew Thayer … Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. The XP adds to the standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the device for a higher friction belay system. Get whichever fits with your anchor style. The Petzl Reverso does have a problem with thicker climbing ropes — to play it safe, it’s suggested that only ropes from 6.9 … Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the rope. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of … In a pinch, you can also use it for hauling light loads. The auto-lock rappel can save your life (often on descents one is too tired to set up an autoblock backup). As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. Great for rapelling, cutting down weight and, if used correctly, just as safe as any other belay device, models like the Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC Guide and Beal Air Force 1 won't let you down. Pesant seulement 73 grammes, ce système de rappel et d'assurage entre dans la catégorie poids plume. 60% Upvoted. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 141. What Gear do I Need to Start? We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. 1. Still undecided? BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. The current version of the ATC Guide has cutouts in the sidewalls and a larger hole (in comparison to previous models) for the auto lock release. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. Black Diamond has another belay device known as the ATC Guide. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Id just get whatever comes in your favourite colour. share. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. If you desire a Petzl with this mode, expect to pay prices comparable to Black Diamond for this one feature. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! One of the most versatile belay/rappel devices, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode.
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